I consider acid peeling more than just a science; it’s an art form. As such, learning an art evolves with understanding and experience. Anyone who knows me knows how passionate I am about the results skin peels produce. Naturally however, there is some trepidation when it comes to peels, much of which stems from the many myths surrounding the process.
Myth: Chemical peels result in scarring and raw skin
Truth: If a trained skin care professional performs the peel, permanent scarring will not be an issue. Redness and peeling are normal with deeper peels, but today there are numerous superficial options available as well as advancements in cosmeceutical formulas that reduce inflammation and rebuild and heal the skin. The long-term effects of the peels are healthier, smoother, more youthful-appearing skin.
Myth: Only one treatment is needed!
Truth: Typically several applications must be administered over several months or years, depending on the skin damage. As the skin care professional, it’s up to you assess and determine what is best for your client’s skin.
Myth: Chemical peels don’t mix with rosacea, pigmented or higher Fitzpatrick (darker) skin types!
Truth: As I mentioned there are various levels of chemical peels. The superficial treatments I use follow three designations of intensity including, progressive, mid-depth and deep. Most skin types, including those with pigmentation issues or darker skin respond well to progressive treatments. In fact, peels can have a very positive effect. Acid blends like 10 percent TCA, 20 percent lactic and salicylic, along with L-ascorbic and azelaic, work well with these skin types.
Skin peels can deliver considerable improvements, but the success of a peel depends on four things: your knowledge, selecting fresh quality ingredients to work with, your ability to read the skin, and client compliance.
My favorite peels in the treatment room are the Apple Wine Peel & Lotus Peel....
Apple Wine Peel is a mild, natural, superficial peeling agent that may be used for many skin conditions, giving skin an extra boost. Providing noticeable benefits for firming and toning as well as antioxidant support, Apple Wine Peel creates cell turnover while softening and hydrating skin as wine components provide skin additional nutrient value.
A unique acid peel utilizing the exotic lotus flower, the Lotus Peel is a cutting-edge lightener with free radical scavenging capabilities and more brightening capabilities due to its ability to hold its efficacy in lower pH acids. A step-up from Jessner, Lotus Peel offers anti-inflammatory and natural lightening benefits with less damage on a molecular level from free-radical stress. With the added benefits of salicylic and gluconic acid, this advanced Jessner peel is a gentle solution for those with sensitive skin; the results - a brighter complexion, smoother skin tone, and younger-looking skin.